Sea Side – Part 17

By Mariyah

Kiera's Green Dress - Edith Dora ReyI sat on the edge of my bed and thought about the call from which I had just hung up. I really had missed Youssef. But I hadn’t planned on admitting it to him. In fact, I was annoyed at myself for caving so quickly. As soon as I had heard his voice, though, that was it. His voice always did something to me. It seemed to have the properties of an auditory opiate. The moment he spoke my name I dropped all barriers and drifted carefree upon its smooth tones. All the worries that had plagued me, before the conversation, drifted away. No one had ever had this kind of effect on me.  A colleague once remarked that I “appeared impervious to romance”. It was surprising to her that I could write about it since I just “didn’t get it”. And she was right. It all seemed so superficial to me…until I met Youssef. But with him, romance was simply the icing on a rich and delicious cake, most of which I had yet to discover. The question was whether I would allow myself to really enjoy the taste. Later as I listened to the sweet words of his dedicated song, my resolve to remain respectfully distant was significantly weakened even further. I slept dreaming of what the following day might unfold.

—–

Sweet, summer, morning mists drifted through my bedroom window filling my airways with the combined scents of wildflowers, earth, and sea. I breathed deeply and rose to part the curtains away from the window so that I could enjoy the view. Strips of sunshine lit up the eastern sides of the whitewashed homes and pooled in the open fields as the rays climbed over the mountain peaks. I got a sudden urge to walk, maybe run, through the fields as far as I could go. I imagined myself in a floppy hat and flowing dress – yes, like a cliched romantic movie clip. I couldn’t help it. The place seemed to bring it out in me. Even though I was becoming increasingly aware of the heartbreak and suffocating traditions that crept through the lives of some of the people here, this view had such a contagious, warm, dream-like quality. I was easily swept away from a cool reality.

Quickly, so as not to lose my precious spark of spontaneity, I rifled through my dresses hung in the closet to find the most gracefully flowing one. I had brought one, packed at the last minute; floral, silk, cinched waist, low neckline. Perhaps more appropriate for an evening dinner date than a walk through a field, but at that moment I didn’t care. As I slipped it on, I felt a strange sense of freedom. I felt beautiful. I left my hair long and slipped on dainty sandals. I didn’t have the proper hat so I went without. As I opened the apartment door, the breezes caught my hair and caressed all of me tingling my skin pleasantly. I leapt down the stairs with a childlike giggle. I intended to head straight for the field but stopped abruptly when I became aware of someone sobbing nearby. I looked up and saw Yasmina leaning forlornly against her window and crying bitterly.

Sometimes people like to be left alone in their misery, but sometimes it is just impossible to turn your back.

“Yasmina?” I called up to her.

She shrunk away from the window and I instantly felt badly for my intrusion. But then she opened her door and motioned weakly for me to come up. I suddenly felt ridiculous in my florid dress but did not hesitate to help a friend who was so obviously in need. When I entered her apartment she was curled up, like a small child, in the corner of her sofa. I stood, motionless, in the doorway, not knowing whether to go to her or to give her some space.

“I love him, Amar. Oh god, how I love him.” she whispered between tears.

My heart filled with optimism but I erred on the side of caution. “Housam?”

“No, Amar. Yazan.” she looked at me pleadingly as if I might accuse her of treachery. “I loved Housam once, certainly, but that was so long ago. What am I going to do?”

It took everything in me to contain my glee. I sat on the edge of her sofa. “Yasmina, will you let me help you?”

“What could you possibly do?”

“I don’t know yet, but it would mean a lot to me to know you’ll accept my help when and if I can give it.”

Yasmina looked at me quizzically and then smiled sadly. “It is difficult to say no to you, Amar. Your eyes shine with such optimism – something I haven’t seen in so long.” She looked away toward the window. “I would do anything…” Her voice trailed off but I understood.

Just then, I heard the sound of a car pulling up outside the building. Yasmina looked at me and smiled. She had heard it too.

“Go! Don’t keep him waiting if you don’t need to.”

I reached out and grasped her hand. Her meaning hit me forcefully.

“Go, Amar.”

“Just tell me one thing, Yasmina.” I needed to know. “Why do you love him?”

“He is me.”

I reeled with the complex simplicity. He is me. He is me.

—–

Once outside, I waved excitedly, “Youssef!”, and bounded down the stairs. Youssef looked at me over the top of his car and continued to watch me approaching him as he rounded the car to meet me. I fell into his embrace and he kissed me hungrily.

“Yous…sef!” I tried to speak between kisses. Youssef…Please…Listen!”

“Kiss me.” He insisted. I fell silent as his lips met mine again and tenderly but effectively spoke of everything that mattered at that moment.

© Mariyah Ayoub and Mariyah’s Blog, 2008-2009. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Mariyah Ayoub and Mariyah’s Blog with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Sea Side – Part 15

By Mariyah

7 - Ahed RajjoubI stood in my own stunned silence as I watched Youssef drive away. Well, not stunned exactly. I had half expected him to kiss me. Dazed would be a better word, dazed and delighted. And surprised. Surprised because I was so delighted. I smiled and shook my head as his car disappeared from view. I touched my lips with my fingers and felt the tingle of his kiss all over again. It had been soft and so tender, completely unlike I had previously imagined it might be. My stereotyping had blinded me. I thought perhaps an awkward professor might dispense rather dry, dispassionate kisses. But he was not awkward, nor dry and definitely not dispassionate. In fact, the more time I spent with him, the more I realized that perhaps his exterior image may be a disguise, one he devised, perhaps subconsciously, to shield himself from unwanted attention.

“Too bad.” I said aloud to myself. He could have made some woman very happy. Then immediately realized the irony in my thoughts. He was making me very happy. Why was I not completely allowing myself to enjoy him even if it would only be a brief time we could have together? That was the problem, the brevity. I was holding back, not intentionally, but the time constraints weighed on my mind and affected my behavior. What would I have done had I known I would never leave this place? The answer hit me so hard, I felt the tears well in my eyes. I would have fallen completely and utterly in love with this man. I sighed deeply. The reality was that I was falling in love with him and the thought of leaving him tore at my heart. I turned back to face my temporary home and walked toward it with a purposeful stride. I had decided instantaneously. I couldn’t allow myself the selfish pleasure of toying with Youssef’s heart or my own. I had only a few weeks left and my purpose here was clear. To help Yasmina and Yazan. They had a good chance at a future together. Youssef and I, as far as I could see, did not.

—–

My make-shift writing table was a bit wobbly. I tried to ignore it as I scribbled down a few thoughts in one of the notebooks Youssef had picked up for me. But my mind was distracted and I welcomed the excuse to find something to shove under the table-leg to stabilize it. I wandered aimlessly around the apartment, halfheartedly opening drawers and cupboards. I stopped in front of the west-facing window and stared absentmindedly at the shining waters beyond the village. My heart ached to stay here…forever. But it just wasn’t possible. My whole life, well, my career, lay ahead of me back home. I had worked so hard to make it as far as I had, I couldn’t give it up for something…someone…I knew so little about. It just didn’t seem reasonable or practical. Besides my track record with relationships wasn’t exactly stellar. Obviously. That was probably part of the reason my father suggested I vacation here. He knew the relatives would never stand for this kind of lackadaisical, non-committal behaviour. I couldn’t help but smile at my own clumsiness. And then Youssef’s smile floated into my mind…

A loud knock at the door startled me. I hadn’t been expecting anyone and I felt tense at the interruption.

“Amar? Its Yasmina.”

Relief flooded me. This was a welcome interruption after all. I flung open the door and greeted her warmly.

“Yasmina! What a wonderful surprise.”

She raised one eyebrow and looked hesitantly inside before entering.
“I’m not disrupting anything am I?”

I knew what she meant. “No. I’m all alone.”

We plunked ourselves on the sofa like two teenaged girls.

“So…?” Yasmina asked curiously.

I played dumb. “So, what?”

“Oh come on! How was your morning with Youssef?”

I answered too briskly. “It was fine. Lovely.” I tried to force a smile.

Yasmina started to laugh, hard.

“What?”

“You’re terrified!” she laughed harder. “He kissed you didn’t he? He kissed you and you liked it!”

Women have an uncanny ability to pick up on body language, especially when that body language contradicts the spoken words. I decided my only defense was to throw something back at her to set her off-guard and off the topic of me and Youssef.

“What do you think of Yazan?”

“Oh no, no! We were talking about you!” She smiled broadly.

“Please, Yasmina?” I practically begged. “Tell me about Yazan.”

I could see her entire body withdraw almost within itself. “I barely know him, Amar. He won’t let anyone know him. But then, I’m married so I don’t make it my business.”

“And I have no business leading Youssef on. I’ll be leaving soon. Its not fair to either of us.”

We looked at each other in silence. Each of us knowing full well that we were in love and that we were both hiding behind these obstacles that we closely guarded as being legitimate for the sake of self-preservation. Now I was further set in my determination to tear down her obstacle, and clearly she was equally determined to destroy mine.

“He would go anywhere with you.” An effective verbal grenade.

Shields up. My response was almost robotic in nature. “But he has his life and career here. He couldn’t leave as much as I couldn’t stay.”

“That’s bullshit, Amar, and you know it.” Yasmina wasn’t smiling.

“Well what about you? You can’t live like this forever, Yasmina.” I threw everything at her. “Yazan is in love with you.”

She sighed. She already knew. “It’s all bullshit.” I held her while she cried her heart out and in my own heart I longed to be held by Youssef.

© Mariyah Ayoub and Mariyah’s Blog, 2008-2009. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Mariyah Ayoub and Mariyah’s Blog with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Sea Side – Part 9

Restless - Tahereh Samadi Tari“Youssef?” The name barely passed my lips.

It had been a long time since I had experienced a nightmare. They plagued me as a child but as an adult they rarely entered my head at night. It was the most unsettling sensation, especially since I awoke with a start in unfamiliar surroundings. As I sat up and pulled my legs into my chest, my breath was quick, my heartbeat quicker, and perspiration dotted my forehead. My eyes struggled to adjust to the darkness and at the same time darted to avoid the nightmare images that still fogged my view. An almost unbearable sense of sadness and foreboding gripped my soul and I wanted to call out to anyone; just someone to take my hand and soothe me back to a reasonable calm.

“Youssef.” The tears welled in my eyes and tumbled unreservedly down my cheeks. I could barely stifle my sobs by pulling the sheets to my face. As I closed my eyes again the water pipes in the small, main floor apartment began to rattle and jolted me back into my nightmare. They were at the door – the men with hidden faces. They had come for Yasmina’s husband. No. They had come for Youssef. He was Yasmina’s husband? The banging pounded in my head and I covered my ears. But still they persisted – louder and louder. They can’t take him away from her…from me!

“No!” My scream hung in the air and then dissipated into the still silence of the deep night. The nightmare evaporated before my eyes but still left me cold and confused. I hugged my knees tighter and searched my mind for the correct answers, to sort nightmare from reality. But even as I recalled that it had been Yasmina who had lost her husband, not I who had lost Youssef, I still couldn’t shake a feeling of dread. I knew many people who believed that their dreams foretold some future event but I had always dismissed it as nonsense. In fact, due to the intensity of my nightmares during my teenage years, I made a point of refusing absolutely that anything could be made of dreams. But now I worried urgently about Youssef and could not settle myself.

I turned on the bedside lamp. The dull light partially illuminated the room in a soft glow but left the far corners in shadow. I felt a sudden chill crawl over my exposed skin. The room, although lovely and modest in the daytime, seemed barren and stark now. I rose reluctantly from the bed and walked to my travel bag to search for the scrap of paper with Youssef’s phone number. The cold of the tile floor seeped up into my body through the soles of my feet. As I pulled the tiny note from the bag, I sighed deeply as if these few numbers were my only salvation, and quickly headed back to the warmth and humble protection of my bedsheets.

I stared at the phone on the night-table. I hadn’t any notion of what the hour was. The old clock that sat beside the phone was of the wind-up variety which I hadn’t bothered to wind the night before. I had figured, then, I would rise to enjoy the morning when the sun awoke me. I was on vacation after all and wasn’t expected at the cafe until after noon. Now I wished the clock would provide some comfort, with a constant, reassuring tic-toc.

I looked again at the tiny note with the carefully handwritten numbers. I envisioned Youssef slumbering peacefully and began to think of how foolish I would look if I called him now and disturbed him. He would have thought I was either a madwoman, or a silly girl with a crush. The very idea of either scenario threw me into a fit of giggles that blossomed and effectively rushed away the sense of dread I had felt only moments before. How could I be so ridiculous, allowing my dreams to affect me so? But deep inside, I knew that I would still feel better once I saw Youssef’s face at the cafe.

—–

All morning I wrote feverishly in my notebook. By noon the scorching sun was high in the sky and I had lost almost all traces of shade on the balcony where I now sat. Yasmina had invited me to use the balcony as it was an extension of her own apartment on the second floor. It overlooked the lower village with a perfect view of the cafe and the sea beyond. For most of the morning I had been very comfortable there. The quaintness of the village inspired my imagination and the words poured out of me onto the page. Now, however, the heat began to congeal the creative juices and I found myself staring wistfully at the sparkling waters.

Suddenly my eyes were distracted by activity at the cafe. Several cars had pulled up along the road and about half a dozen men emerged from them. I wondered if this might be the group whom Youssef had invited to join him, but I did not see Youssef. A pang of worry churned in my stomach and images of my nightmare flashed in my memory. I decided that I needed to go to the cafe now as well. I gathered my things and, as I was returning to the stairwell through Yasmina’s apartment, I stopped to see my refection in the mirror. My face was flushed from the heat, and my hair had coiled into ringlets in the humidity. Self consciously I swept them up onto my head with a clip and slipped out the door.

As I walked the short distance to the cafe, my eyes continued to sweep the area for a glimpse of Youssef. By the time I reached the patio, I still had not spotted him. My worry became agonizing even though I continually reminded myself that I was being ridiculous. It wasn’t long before I was greeted heartily by Walid, his eyes dancing with delight.

“Amar. Welcome back!” he nearly shouted and his huge hand reached across my back and ushered me forward. “Please, sit here. It is the best seat in the house!”

Walid’s smile was broad and warm. I couldn’t help but admire the pride he had for his little cafe.

“This is a perfect spot.” I agreed and returned as bright a smile as I could muster. “Thank you.”

I watched Walid’s eyes wander from me to the street. Although I hadn’t thought it possible, his smile grew.

“Ah, Dr. Youssef, you have arrived.” He bellowed. Walid went out to greet the professor who had just rounded the corner. I stood again quickly in my eagerness to see him, nearly craning my neck to see around the girth of Walid. As my eyes met with Youssef’s, I knew immediately from his expression that perhaps it would have been prudent of me to attempt to conceal my emotions, even if only by a fraction. Without stopping to greet his friends, he moved, instead, swiftly toward me. “Oh my god.” I thought to myself. “What am I going to tell him?”

© Mariyah Ayoub and Mariyah’s Blog, 2008-2009. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Mariyah Ayoub and Mariyah’s Blog with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Sea Side – Part 5

The Old Man and the SeaI smiled at him, Dr. Youssef, who was looking at me so intently, and then turned back to my own table. I smiled again, but this time to myself. I had seen his type before. While involved in academic circles back home, I had encountered plenty of them. In stereotypical terms, he had all the appearance of the bumbling professor. I put his age at about mid-40’s. Unlike many men his age, he was blessed with a full head of hair, which was slightly ruffled and graying. He had the requisite professorial mustache and beard, that, to his credit, he kept neatly trimmed. His clothes, although, well pressed, still seemed somewhat disheveled or was it, perhaps, that they were out of style by several decades? His bifocal glasses hung from his hand which he rested coolly at his side. I surmised that he had removed them as he noticed the waitress, Yasmina, approaching his table. His shoes bore the mark of a man who paces. They were time-worn, brown leather shoes where the tip of the toe is slightly raised. I could imagine him in a classroom, brushing off some dusty, but treasured old copy of The Old Man and the Sea, and wearing a path across the front of the room while lecturing. Oh yes, physically, he fit the part perfectly.

Yet no one fits a stereotype absolutely and there was something definitely incongruous about applying this stereotype to him. Although he had become increasingly befuddled while speaking with the beautiful waitress, his voice continued to exude a quality that didn’t match his behaviour. And that left me somewhat perplexed. Perhaps this was his practiced professional voice. After all, one could not conduct a proper lecture without an authoritative voice. But “authoritative” didn’t really describe the way he spoke. It was much smoother than that. But not smooth in an untrustworthy way just pleasant and calming. I wondered, then, if perhaps behind that shy and clumsy exterior was a true romantic, a man, who knew the way to a woman’s heart. Then again, maybe I just wanted him to be this way. It seemed fitting to have a romantic hero amidst all of the beauty of the cafe.

During all of my years of writing, I could never escape the chivalrous and sometimes, tragic, hero. He would always come leaping into my literary creations whether he fit there or not – out of dark shadows, from behind a deli counter, or, my most illustrious – emerging from a rusty Chevette. These characters were obnoxiously cliched but no matter how I tried to change them, they stood their ground, being heroes, and refused to be anything else but. My editor always embraced them and my readers did likewise, as far as I knew – but still, I have striven to avoid them. This man before me is real, I told myself, he is an ordinary man with ordinary strengths and weaknesses. Don’t make him into something he’s not. But as his eyes lit up in the presence of Yasmina, how could I not let my mind stroll down the same path? Well, I hadn’t actually seen his eyes light up. I imagined that they had. Perhaps that was my first mistake.

This time, unlike so many times before, I couldn’t allow my imagination to fill in the blanks. I wanted to know exactly the way things were. But how could I observe Dr. Youssef without being noticed since he had obviously already noticed me? I couldn’t even ask Yasmina about him since he and I were within earshot of one another. There was really only one way.

I turned fully in my chair to face him. “Dr. Youssef is it?”

“Yes. Hello.” He replied with a smile. His eyes fixed on mine again. “And may I know your name?”

“Of course. Amar Masoud.” I replied with an equally generous smile.

“Amar.” He repeated my name softly to himself. “You’re not from around here.”

“My father is from the hills near Safita but moved to Canada before I was born. He met my mother and they raised me there. I am here to visit relatives as well as to enjoy a little vacation.”

“How fortunate…for you!”

“Well I certainly think that I am fortunate to have found this lovely place, don’t you think?”

“Oh yes. We were both fortunate in this way.” He smiled again and I realized how attractive his smile made him. It brightened his entire face and his eyes sparkled. “Do you mind if I ask you something personal?”

I knew immediately what the question would be. What was I, a foreign woman, doing traveling alone and without her husband? I had been asked this at least a hundred times since arriving here. I usually tried to answer as elusively as possible. Saying that one is not married at my age is only asking for trouble – looks of shock and horror, followed by a barrage of suggestions that so and so’s son in the next village was looking for a wife. So I braced myself and nodded to Dr. Youssef.

“What are you writing?” He asked gently. “I noticed, earlier, you making an entry in your notebook. I thought maybe that you might be an author or journalist or something of that sort.”

I smiled at him awkwardly and tried to conceal my surprise and, I suppose, my relief. “Ah. You want to know about my writing.” I let out a slight giggle. I could feel the colour rising in my cheeks.

He chuckled as well. “You thought I would ask something else. No, Amar. Literature, in many forms, intrigues me.”

“Yes, of course, Dr. Youssef.” I couldn’t stop smiling. “I was taking notes about this place so as not to forget any detail. I am a novelist and would dearly love to write a story with the Sea Breeze Cafe, or a place very much like it, as the main setting.”

“And now you want to know more about me.” His eyes glistened mischievously.

I blushed unreservedly. “Well, yes, Professor, if you wouldn’t mind.”

Immediately he rose from his seat and waved his hand toward the empty chair across from him. “Come, Amar. Please join me at my table.”

How could I refuse? “Thank you, Dr. Youssef. I shall.”

© Mariyah Ayoub and Mariyah’s Blog, 2008-2009. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Mariyah Ayoub and Mariyah’s Blog with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

A Note to My Readers

The series of “Notes from the Countryside” are excerpts from journal entries I wrote while on vacation in and around Safita, Syria.

Notes from the Countryside: An Ode to My Travelling Companion

On a bustling street in Safita, I’m sitting in one of the many cafés in the evening. Foreign tourists and Syrians – local or tourists, I don’t know – are the make-up of the clientele here. Nothing much distinguishes this café from any other – the coffee is good, the meze quite palatable, and the crowd energetic. The usual political discussions are taking place as well as some sombre chatter about the passing of the Palestinian writer, Mahmoud Darwish (Allah yirhamu). In the spirit of the day, I had bought a book of his poetry, and am now enjoying its passages.

Across from me sits my best friend, Nadia, who also bought a Darwish book – but a different one so that we can trade later. Nadia and I have been friends since primary school. We have always complimented one another – I being shy and reserved and she outgoing and somewhat impulsive. Nadia can tell a story better than anyone I have ever met. She can draw and audience with ease. “I’ll never be a writer. That’s your domain.” She claims. She prefers the oratory approach.

Nadia has always been very tall – even when were young girls. She was a head above all the other girls in the class. She has a wide and friendly face with large, brown, intelligent eyes. She wears her long, dark, hair up and neat. Nadia’s broad smile immediately puts one at ease and you feel as though you can confide anything in her – which you can. She and I have always had one another to lean on. We have supported one another through thick and thin. Even while I was in Canada, she and I remained very close. She visited no less than seven times during my twenty years there. Her visits were always a highlight. The one thing I appreciated most about her was that she was understanding without being judgemental. She was the one who encouraged me to finally leave my abusive ex-husband – believe it or not, she spent years trying to convince me.

I couldn’t have chosen a better travelling companion. We needed the time together. Since I’ve returned to Syria, most of our time spent together has been in the company of others or on a tight schedule – she with children and me with my own responsibilities. On this tour of historical sites, I’m so glad to have her company, her perspective on things. I am very grateful for her friendship. As I’m writing this, I admire her from across the table – and she gives me that “What?” look. I wink at her causing her to laugh and nearly spit out her sip of coffee. Now, I ask you, what are friends for?

Notes from the Countryside: Thoughts Beneath an Olive Tree


Change is the only constant. –Heraclitus

As I sit beneath an olive tree in a grove on the Safita hillside, I can’t stop thinking of what was and its effect, or not, on what will be. I wonder – how many pairs of eyes have looked to the sea from this very location? How many faces have felt the filtered sunlight through the leaves of these ancient trees? How many ears have been pleased by the gentle clanging of the bells from a distant goat herd? I am at once at peace. This gentle massage of the senses has been available to all those who seek it on this hillside for centuries.

And yet, I sit alone. The sounds of cars busily traversing the roads high above me suggest that mine will be the only one parked at the side of the road on this day. People seem to have less and less time to enjoy their surroundings. And often, even if given the chance, they look for something elsewhere from which to get enjoyment. I’m sure I’m not the only one taking pleasure in her surroundings, but it is easier to find someone walking quickly and attached to their cell phone. Certainly there is a time and place for that activity, but its so easy to get caught up in technology and to forget about the real world around us.

So with the focus on technology and the future, what happens to these places steeped in history? Will there come a time when the groves are no longer needed? Will olives be supplanted by some other means of income? Will cars traverse this now peaceful valley? Will some future war rip it all to shreds? I look to the skies as if some sign will appear to provide me with the wisdom to know the future. But its blueness and vastness only suggests that possibilities are endless.

These thoughts lead me to think of my parents – my father in particular. I think about how he would have answered my questions and how dearly I would love to hear his voice. But the voice that pervades my thoughts bears little resemblance to his actual voice – like listening to someone over a bad connection. Its funny how memory muffles reality. I know my father would have told me an old story that symbolically explains the passage of time and the effect of old on new. But I am disappointed that I have no memory of any wise tale to draw upon myself. So I must make my own conclusions – or not.

I decide, instead to return to the blissful state of mindless indulgence. An indulgence in what is now and that which I can enjoy. If I spend too much time worrying that this tree under which I sit won’t be here tomorrow, I can’t enjoy it now. Once again, I fix my eyes on the sea and allow the halo of daydream to meld the greens of the valley and the blues of the sea and sky into a glorious landscape of peace and harmony.

Vacation!

When I wrote my last post I honestly didn’t think I’d be going anywhere this summer. There was a lot of mumbling by family and friends about going somewhere but no one seemed very interested in actually arranging something. Perhaps the heat was causing indifference, or maybe they had all been to Hama, or Homs, or Palmyra too many times and couldn’t generate enough enthusiasm to go again. I, on the other hand, have not seen these places in years and have a great desire to go. As glad as I was to return to Damascus, getting away from it, briefly, to revisit these historical places and perhaps see some new sites is a very appealing thought.

I decided to take matters into my own hands. After much deliberation I decided to visit Safita (صا فيتا‎), a coastal mountain village in the Tartous region. The village itself covers three hill tops and the valleys between them. It is rich in history –it has been around since the time of the Phoenicians. The town was also significant during the crusades. It was home to the Knights Templar who built the Safita Tower. From the top of the tower, constructed on the middle of the three hills of Safita, you can see the Mediterranean Sea.

Nearby there are also the towns of Hama and Homs, as well as Qual’at al-Hisn (قلعة الحصن‎) or Krak des Chevaliers. Hama, or Hamath (حماة), is an ancient settlement dating back to early Neolithic period. It is also home to the famous Norias – massive water wheels originally used for irrigation – on the Orontes River. Homs boasts several museums and historical mosques as well as being near to Qual’at al Hisn. Krak was built between 1142 and 1271 and was headquarters to the Knights Hospitaller during the Crusades. I plan to investigate fully, the antiquities and fortifications of this area. “Enthusiastic” is a mild description of how I feel about this road trip.

Am I going alone? Well, no. I’m pleased to say that I have a companion for the journey. Will it be all forts and old stuff? No again. The Safita Cham will be home base for a few days with some time to laze by the pool and some dinners out in the town. I can’t wait to breathe in the mountain air, to taste the food, and to just be! Most importantly I can’t wait to see more of my beloved country! Goodbye for a few weeks. I will give you a full report on the wonders I have seen when I return!